Feminae: Medieval Women and Gender Index


  • Record Number: 8659
  • Author(s)/Creator(s): Burns , E. Jane.
  • Contributor(s):
  • Title: Saracen Silk and the Virgin's "Chemise": Cultural Crossings in Cloth [The article explores the meanings attached to a relic at Chartres, an undergartment belonging to the Virgin. Burns traces connections from the imagined Western linen "chemise" to Islamic silks and Byzantine cuts of clothing. She concludes by arguing that in this way Chartres became more "Saracen." Title note supplied by Feminae].
  • Source: Speculum 81, 2 (April 2006): Pages 365 - 397.
  • Description:
  • Article Type: Journal Article
  • Subject (See Also): Byzantium- Influence Chartres, Eure-et-Loir, France- Cathedral- Marian Relics Clothing Cross Cultural Approach Mary, Virgin, Saint Muslims- Influence Pilgrimage Relics Sainte Chemise, Relic of the Virgin Textiles Trade
  • Geographic Area: Eastern Mediterranean;France
  • Century: General
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  • Illustrations: Eleven illustrations. Figure One Lead pilgrimage badge for Chartres with the "sainte chemise" on the obverse, from Forgeais, 2: 28-29. Figure Two Lead pilgrim badge, from Forgeais, 4: 115-118. Figure Three Lead pilgrim badge, from Spencer, "Pilgrim Souvenirs," p. 224. Figure Four Embroidered cloth, from Mély, "Le trésor de Chartres," plate XI. Figure Five Drawing of a fresco (now destroyed) from the Maison de Dieu in Chartres showing two figures carrying a banded fabric. Figure Six Drawing of a garment, from Forgeais, 4: 103. Figure Seven Development of the "denier chartrain" coin. Figure Eight Lead pilgrim badge, from Forgeais, 2: 33-34. Figure Nine Lead pilgrim badge, from Forgeais, 4: 120. Figure Ten Shirt (linen tabby) cut in Oriental fashion (Toronto, Royal Ontario Museum). Figure Eleven Lead pilgrim badge, from Lecocq, "Recherches," p. 217).
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  • Abstract:
  • Author's Affiliation: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
  • Conference Info: - , -
  • Year of Publication: 2006.
  • Language: English
  • ISSN/ISBN: 00387134
  • Material/Technique :
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