Feminae: Medieval Women and Gender Index

18 Record(s) Found in our database

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1. Record Number: 43204
Author(s): Johnston, Mark D.
Title : Sex, Lies and verdugados: Juana of Portugal and the Invention of Hoopskirts
Source: Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 16., ( 2020):  Pages 101 - 122.
Year of Publication: 2020.

2. Record Number: 38478
Author(s): [no author]
Title : La Prammatica sulle vesti delle donne fiorentine (Firenze 1343-1345)
Source: Draghi rossi e querce azzurre: elenchi descrittivi di abiti di lusso (Firenze 1343-1345).   Edited by Laurence Gérard-Marchant .   SISMEL, 2013. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 16., ( 2020):  Pages 1 - 516.
Year of Publication: 2013.

3. Record Number: 22417
Author(s): Izbicki, Thomas M.
Title : Failed Censures: Ecclesiastical Regulation of Women’s Clothing in Late Medieval Italy [Ecclesiastical efforts to regulate vanity of dress were few in late medieval Italy. Most significant was a constitution written by Cardinal Latino Malabranca intended to limit display of flesh and waste of cloth. By the fourteenth century compromises were being made in the enforcement of this decree, and new issues involving the wearing of jewelry and other ornaments were being addressed. By the fifteenth century, sumptuary legislation was largely left to the Italian communes, although some of the clergy still advocated strict measures against vain dress and ornamentation. The appendices include: Appendix 3.1 Cardinal Latino Malabranca's Constitution on Women's dress (1279); Appendix 3.2 Cardinal Bertrand du Poujet's Modification of Cardinal Latino's Constitution (ca. 1327) ; Appendix 3.3 The Constitution of Antonio d'Orso Biliotti, Bishop of Florence (ca. 1310). Title note submitted by the author.]
Source:   Edited by Robin Netherton; Gale R. Owen-Crocker Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 37 - 53.
Year of Publication: 2009.

4. Record Number: 14605
Author(s): Esposito, Anna.
Title : La normative suntuaria romana tra Quattrocento e Cinquecento [The sumptuary laws of Renaissance Rome survive from the 15th century onward. Laws made by the Romans themselves, with papal approval, try to distinguish citizens of higher or lower class from curialists, nobles and foreigners. Among the concerns of the legislators were ever growing amounts spent on dowries and display of wealth at marriages and funerals. Foods served at banquets also were regulated by these decrees. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: Economia e societa a Roma tra Medioevo e Rinascimento: Studi dedicati ad Arnold Esch.   Edited by Anna Esposito and Luciano Palermo .   Viella, 2005. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 147 - 179.
Year of Publication: 2005.

5. Record Number: 14144
Author(s): Stuard, Susan Mosher.
Title : Marriage Gifts and Fashion Mischief [Susan Mosher Stuard in "Marriage Gifts and Fashion Mischief" details Italian wedding transactions, including the Lombard "male dowry," and the Roman bride's fiscal gift to her husband. She links the increasing pressure from husbands to receive liquid ass
Source: The Medieval Marriage Scene: Prudence, Passion, Policy.   Edited by Sherry Roush and Cristelle L. Baskins .   Arizona Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies, 2005. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 169 - 185. Republished in Considering Medieval Women and Gender. Susan Mosher Stuard. Ashgate Variorum, 2010. Chapter V.
Year of Publication: 2005.

6. Record Number: 11455
Title : Threads Bared: Dress and Textiles in Late Medieval English Wills [The author analyzes 550 wills from London and Canterbury dating from 1327 to 1487. the majority are from artisans and merchants with 16.5% made by women. Women tended to bequeath more items than men, especially clothing and household textiles. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: Medieval clothing and textiles. Vol. 1.   Edited by Robin Netherton and Gale R Owen-Crocker .   Boydell Press, 2005. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 133 - 153.
Year of Publication: 2005.

7. Record Number: 11751
Author(s): Denny-Brown, Andrea.
Title : Rips and Slits: The Torn Garment and the Medieval Self [A fashion for garments with slits, tears, or perforations originated in the 12th century and flourished after 1340. Some slits were intended to reveal undergarments or flesh, exposing them to the gaze of others. This erotic element inspired sumptuary laws and denunciations. Medieval literature also reveals a close relationship between the terms for these slits and violence, as in dagging and daggers. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: Clothing Culture, 1350-1650.   Edited by Catherine Richardson .   Ashgate, 2004. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 223 - 237.
Year of Publication: 2004.

8. Record Number: 12609
Title : Limiting Yardage and Changes of Clothes: Sumptuary Legislation in Thirteenth-Century France, Languedoc, and Italy [In Western Europe, the first laws to control the expenditure and display of dress by laypersons appeared in the thirteenth century. The initial period of regulating activity in Occitania, France, and Italy developed from ecclesiastical laws regulating clerical dress, but the political origins and motivations for the legislation varied by region. Italian and Occitan cities based their legislation upon Roman law, while northern regions of France used customary law; the cities of Montpellier and Siena focused more attention on women’s display than men’s, while most French regions were more interested in keeping a clear correlation between social status and wealth in general. The effects of sumptuary legislation on people in these regions are reflected by numerous sartorial concerns in contemporary vernacular poetry and didactic literatures. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: Medieval Fabrications: Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other Cultural Imaginings.   Edited by E. Jane Burns .   Palgrave, 2004. Medieval Clothing and Textiles , 5., ( 2009):  Pages 121 - 136.
Year of Publication: 2004.

9. Record Number: 19983
Author(s): Mulè, Viviana
Title : L'Inventario dei beni dell'Infanta Isabella d'Aragona prima contessa di Caltabellotta [The author discusses the inventory of goods belonging to Isabella of Aragon, daughter of Frederick III of Sicily and wife of Raymond, count of Caltabellotta. The inventory was prepared in 1334 in connection with her will when Isabella was a widow. She had earlier brought lands and moveable goods to her husband, one of her father's lieutenants. In her inventory Isabella possessed many valuble objects, both secular and religious, including silks and pearls. The appendix presents two transcribed documents in Latin: 1) Inventory of the goods of Isabella of Caltabellotta (1334) and 2) Excerpt from Rosario Gregorio's "Biblioteca scriptorum qui res in Sicilia gestas sub Aragonum imperio retulere," concerning events in 1338. Title note supplied by Feminae.]
Source: Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 69 - 96.
Year of Publication: 2003.

10. Record Number: 8802
Author(s): Sebregondi, Ludovica.
Title : Clothes and Teenagers: What Young Men Wore in Fifteenth-Century Florence [The author argues that young Florentine men wore distinctive clothing. Tight-fitting and revealing cothing that emphasized the wearer's masculinity were popular. Moralists complained but did not succeed in changing fashions. Title note supplied by Feminae.]
Source: The Premodern Teenager: Youth in Society, 1150-1650.   Edited by Konrad Eisenbichler .   Publications of the Centre for Reformation and Renaissance Studies, Essays and Studies, 1. Centre for Reformation and Renaissance Studies, 2002. Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 27 - 50.
Year of Publication: 2002.

11. Record Number: 8084
Author(s): Kirshner, Julius.
Title : Li Emergenti Bisogni Matrimoniali in Renaissance Florence
Source: Society and Individual in Renaissance Florence.   Edited by William J. Connell .   University of California Press, 2002. Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 79 - 109. Reprinted in Marriage, Dowry, and Citizenship in Late Medieval and Renaissance Italy. Written by Julius Kirshner. University of Toronto Press, 2015. Pages 55-73.
Year of Publication: 2002.

12. Record Number: 7169
Author(s): Muzzarelli, Maria Giuseppina.
Title : Seta posseduta et seta consentita: dalle aspirazioni individuali alle norme suntuarie nel basso medioevo [Regulation of the use of silk, like all sumptuary norms, reinforced social distinctions, preventing people from posing as members of a higher social class. Not just wearing silk, but wearing different types of the fabric was regulated. Regulation differed by sex and by the status of a woman's husband or father. Silk, however, though regulated, was not the greatest concern of the Italian legislators. Nevertheless it does appear frequently in dowries. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: La seta in Italia dal Medioevo al Seicento. Dal baco al drappo.   Edited by Luca Molà, Reinhold C. Mueller, and Claudio Zanier .   Marsilio, 2000. Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 211 - 232.
Year of Publication: 2000.

13. Record Number: 5448
Author(s): Bridgeman, Jane.
Title : Pagare le pompe: Why Quattrocento Sumptuary Laws Did Not Work [the author argues that given the very high costs for fabric, especially luxury fabrics, sumptuary laws were intended as a supplementary taxation on the wealthy; instead of forbidding costly attire, the system gave those of high status the opportunity to dress opulently by paying fines].
Source: Women in Italian Renaissance Culture and Society.   Edited by Letizia Panizza .   European Humanities Research Centre, University of Oxford, 2000. Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 209 - 226.
Year of Publication: 2000.

14. Record Number: 3657
Author(s): Stuard, Susan Mosher.
Title : Gravitas and Consumption [The author explores why the "sapientes," the leaders of Venice and Florence, regulated consumption for their wives, daughters and sons but not for themselves].
Source: Conflicted Identities and Multiple Masculinities: Men in the Medieval West.   Edited by Jacqueline Murray .   Garland Medieval Casebooks, volume 25. Garland Reference Library of the Humanities, volume 2078. Garland Publishing, 1999. Schede Medievali , 41., (gennaio-dicembre 2003):  Pages 215 - 242. Republished in Considering Medieval Women and Gender. Susan Mosher Stuard. Ashgate Variorum, 2010. Chapter IV.
Year of Publication: 1999.

15. Record Number: 5301
Author(s): Chabot, Isabelle.
Title : La Sposa in Nero. La Ritualizzazione del Lutto delle Vedove Fiorentine (Secoli XIV-XV) [the Italian dowry system gave the husband temporary control of additional property, but his death deprived his paternal kin group of that property ; Florentine marriage ceremonies emphasized an exchange of gifts, but these rituals did not always include permanent transfer of the objects given; a new widow was dressed in mourning by her husband's family to display family solidarity, but any effort to leave the home or remarry was resisted, partly because property would pass out of the family's control; a marriageable widow might be returned to her birth family in a procession mirroring the earlier one to her husband's house on her wedding day; a long-term trend, however, saw the husband's family gain a greater share of the goods the wife had brought to the marriage].
Source: Quaderni Storici , 2 (agosto 1994):  Pages 421 - 462.
Year of Publication: 1994.

16. Record Number: 6389
Author(s): Guimbard, Catherine.
Title : Appunti sulla legislazione suntuaria a Firenze dal 1281 al 1384 [as the Florentine republic matured, it began to regulate women's dress and expenditures on private festivities to safeguard the stability of the commune; limitations on women's costume was part of a larger effort to moderate any personal expressions that might lead to public disorder; these laws diminished differences between classes without removing them; various arrangements were made for enforcing these laws, including assigning special magistrates to that work; sumptuary laws, however, could not prevent a growing trend toward self expression].
Source: Archivio Storico Italiano , 150., 551 ( 1992):  Pages 57 - 81.
Year of Publication: 1992.

17. Record Number: 10523
Author(s): Hughes, Diane Owen.
Title : Regulating Women’s Fashion [Obsession with fashion was not seen as a particularly feminine problem until the twelfth century, when it became common to condemn women for their appetite for fancy clothing. As commerce in cloth increased, excessive clothing became increasingly associated with women. Governments enacted sumptuary laws (specifying what styles and colors of clothes one could wear) in order to fix social rank and status through clothing. Bourgeois women who were able to adopt rich array and change clothes according to recent fashion trends threatened social hierarchies. In the later Middle Ages clothing began to take on new meanings; it was seen not only as a mark of social status but as a sign of virtue or sin. Women often evaded the clothing constraints forced upon them, thereby reordering social distinctions. Title note supplied by Feminae.].
Source: A History of Women in the West. Volume 2: Silences of the Middle Ages.   Edited by Christiane Klapisch-Zuber .   Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 1992. Quaderni Storici , 2 (agosto 1994):  Pages 136 - 158.
Year of Publication: 1992.

18. Record Number: 10679
Author(s): Elliott, Dylan.
Title : Dress as Mediator Between Inner and Outer Self: The Pious Matron of the High and Later Middle ages [Clothing often served as a saint's way of signifying the discrepancy between her percieved social standing (according to secular values) and her own individual selfhood (one based on spiritual beliefs). For married female saints, clothing was an even more complex form of symbolism as it often thwarted the wife's expected subordination to her husband while also projecting an image of virginity which was at odds with a married social persona. During the later Middle Ages, clergy began to endorse efforts to restrict the clothing of laywomen in order to maintain husbands' supremacy over their pious wives. Title note supplied by Feminae.]
Source: Mediaeval Studies , 53., ( 1991):  Pages 279 - 308.
Year of Publication: 1991.